“Sixty bucks,” the vendor told me. For a plastic toy? I told him I was going to look around for a better deal. When I turned, he saw the Anime Boston Staff logo on the back on my shirt. “Fifty-five for staff,” he called after me. Not much of a discount, but it was enough for me to justify buying it anyway.

It took me four hours to put my Gundam together. Now, she sits on the bookshelf in all her gleaming titanium and florescent pink glory. My Gundams mean more to me than a figure ever will. It’s so satisfying to look at them and know how much time I spent putting them together.

Gundam modeling has become my unlikely but enjoyable new hobby. The only problem is how tough it was to break into it. The instructions in the box are in Japanese, and I couldn’t find a single “just the basics” tutorial for beginners! I guess becoming a professor has given me confidence, because I’ve done my best to do a primer myself. Remember though: this is just the basics, because I’m a beginner, too.

So if you, too, would like to take up Gundam modeling, here’s my guide to get you started:

This Zaku II is a Real Grade. However, we don’t live in a world where this is “realistic.”

Choosing a Gundam kit for your skill level

Before you begin building, you need to learn a few things about the types of Gundam models out there. Gundams are classified in two ways: by grade and by scale.

Grade refers not only to the level of mastery you will need in order to complete your Gundam, but the accuracy of the individual parts. A Gundam of a very detailed grade will be most true to life, er, true to the way it looks on the show. However, it’ll also be the trickiest to assemble. Here’s a list of the most common grades and scales you will encounter:

• Super Deformed: my first Gundam model was one of these. Made to look like tiny, cutified robots, these models have the worst plastic quality and least parts of all.

• High Grade: The next step up. Bandai started releasing these in 1990 as their most complex and intricate models. When they found out there was a demand for accuracy, they began releasing more and more complex grades of models. Today, these are not considered to be too complex and make great beginner Gundams.

• Real Grade: A brand new grade, started in 2010. It takes elements from the High Grade, such as being relatively simple to put together, but also elements from Master Grade, like having an internal skeleton underneath plate-like top parts. The insides make it more posable, but not harder. For me, these are on the same skill level as a High Grade.

• Master Grade: Released in 1995, these models are intricate without being excessively expensive. As the name implies, though, it’s best to have completed a few other models before undertaking one of these.

• Perfect Grade: You can’t get any more accurate than this. Or any more expensive! These are the largest, most detailed models of all. If you don’t think building one of these is a challenge, you should sign up for the Gundam World Cup right now.

Gundams generally come in several scales, based on how many of the model would fit inside an actual Gundam. There are several models that defy this scale, but they’re fewer and farther between.

• 1/144: The smallest scale available. I was surprised when I made my first Gundam in this size and its face was only the size of my thumbnail. It looked a lot bigger on the box. Keep in mind that just because a 1/144 is the smallest size doesn’t mean it is always the least detailed. Real Grade and High Grade models are available in this scale.

• 1/100: The next size up. I’ve got my eye on a few models that come in this size. Master Grade models come in this scale.

• 1/60: Now we’re getting somewhere. These are about as tall as a housecat. You can get less detailed with High Grade or go all the way with Perfect Grade, but nobody’s going to miss something this size sitting on your shelf.

• 1/1: All right, you can’t actually make one of these, but you can go see it in Japan!